Sandy beaches and intertidal flats are among the most dynamic
environments. They occur on all sedimentary shorelines exposed
to waves, the so-called ‘coastal-plain’ or shoreface respectively
(see: Coastal Landscapes).
The shoreface, as defined morphodynamically, extends from the
limit of wave runup on the beach face, seaward to the limit of
effective influence by gravity waves in shaping seabed morphology.
The geomorphology and nature of sandy shorelines and dunes is
totally dependent on waves and sediment, but independent of most
of other surface processes. Consequently they occur in all latitudes,
in all climates, in all tidal ranges and on all types of coasts
(for Europe see: Coastal
Systems of Europe). However, they are influenced and modified
by other processes, particularly wind and tidal energy, parameters
such as size and type of sediment, biota, air and water temperature,
and water chemistry (7, 9).
In very few cases sandy beaches and intertidal flats can be found
in a natural condition (see: Natural processes),
mostly they are influenced and managed by man (see: The
management of tidal inlets, Coastal defence
management, Sand replenishment for coastal
defence).
1 – Natural processes
Beach morphodynamics can be defined as the ‘mutual adjustment of
topography and fluid dynamics involving sediment transport’. On
beaches this implies that the surface topography of the beach (swash,
surf and shoaling wave zones) will adjust to accomodate the fluid
motions produced by waves, tides and other currents, which in turn
will influence the wave and tide processes (9).
Alternations of advance and retreat even in the same part of the
coastline can constantly be noticed (1).
Connected to the shorface are the backshore and the dune area, both
being in a constant exchange of material with the beach because
of aeolian and hydrodynamic sediment transport processes (see: Sand
replenishment for coastal defence, Natural
foredunes; case studies: Ameland,
Terschelling, The Netherlands).
Despite nowadays those dynamic processes are well-known and
accepted in a wide range, people still tend to accept the dynamic
character of the sea as long as the dynamical processes lead to
an increase of the landscape (e.g. the island Memmert,
Germany), but they tend to negate a natural development and want
to interfere as soon as erosion starts to prevail. In such situations
nature conservation and public interests can quickly come into a
conflict (see: the islands Rottumeroog and
Rottumerplaat, The Netherlands).
A natural dune coastline is characterised by the occurence
of tidal inlets. They may have developed in (former) shallows as
a combination of various factors:
(i) as remnants of old rivulets or creeks (e.g. The Zwin, Belgium,
many French inlets),
(ii) storm impacts (the island Schiermonnikoog,
The Netherlands),
(iii) after reclamation (the ‘slufter’ on the island Texel,
The Netherlands) or
(iv) on purpose by man (see: The management of
tidal inlets).
2 - The management of tidal
inlets
The management of tidal inlets may range from (i) closing of inlets,
e.g. as part of an operation that opens a new one, to (ii) stabilizing
inlets, e.g. to maintain predictable navigation channels of shoreline
positions, (iii) increasing inlet mobility, e.g. for the creation
profound alterations to the adjacent shoreline and (iv) creating
inlets, e.g. to improve navigation or water quality (6)
(see: Ringkøbing Fjord, Denmark).
With respect to nature conservation management, there is room for
natural processes in places where dune ridges are several kilometres
wide and the sand dune body high enough to prevent the hinterland
from flooding by the sea. In these places coastal defence is not
critical and tidal inlets can be allowed. They may develop as a
result of natural processes (see: Schiermonnikoog,
The Netherlands) or by human influence. In many French dune systems
tidal inlets have developed as natural dune streams carrying water
from the dunes to the beach. At spring tides these inlets are flooded
with sea water. This phenomenon is comparable with the recently
restored rivulet of the Wadden Sea Island Terschelling,
The Netherlands. In the Schoorl dune
area (also The Netherlands) an inlet was made in the foredunes to
let the sea in from time to time. This way, the dunes are enabled
to more natural conditions.
3 – Coastal Defence Management
Historically, coastal landscapes and dunes respectively have been
exploited in a variety of ways. Man interposed hard structures like
houses into a relatively soft and dynamic environment (and still
do so). The wish of dunes being permanent led in the past to a coastal
defence management, which oppressed dynamics and created a so-called
hard coastline (3). Much of
the protection work carried out in the past involved the construction
of relatively simple hard structures built in response to periodic
emergencies without investigating even the short term implications
of such structures on the coastline as a whole. Inappropriate structures
can accelerate erosion of soft coasts or erosion even takes place
further upshore or downshore (see: Ringkøbing
Fjord, Denmark). If this would be continued the overall coastal
environment would be at risk (8).
Some countries react on such bad experiences in the past and the
increased knowledge of dynamic processes of the coastline with new
projects or even new policies. The Government of the Netherlands
decided in 1990 on dynamic preservation of the coastline, allowing
dynamic processes where coastal defence is not critical while maintaining
the coastline in its 1990s position with sand replenishment (2,
4) (see: Meijendel
dunes, The Netherlands). Ireland launched in 1995 the project
ECOPRO – ‘Environmentally Friendly Coastal Protection’ -.
4 - Sand replenishment for coastal
defence
Over the last ten years sand replenishment has become widely practiced
in Europe. It is used as a way to counteract coastal erosion and
to restore or maintain beaches and their facilities (see: Sylt,
Germany). The method is a soft engineering alternative, furthermore
it is a cheap option (contrary to the "solid" and expensive ones
like piers and groins; see: Coastal defence management)
and fits more into the natural dynamic character of sandy coasts.
Beach and dune nourishment adds a ‘wearing layer’ to absorb coastal
energy so that the beach and dunes remain intact. In general, nourishment
sand is borrowed in the nearshore zone of the sea, usually by dredging
and transported to a discharge location in the vicinity of the beach
to be nourished. The material is brought ashore and spread out over
the beach. Bulldozers and cranes are used to remodel the fill. The
material may be placed under the water, on the beach or in the dune
area (5, 6).
The management technique has many positive features and benefits,
but sand replenishment may have ecological effects, too. This applies
both to sand extraction sites and to the nourishment site as well
as several indirect effects on the geomorphology and vegetation
of the outer dunes (5).
During the extraction the amount of suspended sediment in the water
increases, which has adverse effects on many biological processes.
Furthermore, benthic organisms locally disappear except for less
vulnerable species. The area may be recolonised which often results
in a population with less species diversity and less vitality (see:
Ringkøbing Fjord, Denmark). In
the Mediterranean many projects have damaged underwater ecosystems
(see: Posidonia beds), so in Spain the
sand is now taken from inland sources (5).
On the nourishment site the original geomorphology, the
flora and the fauna may be affected. Furthermore, nourishment sand
has characteristics unlike beach sand and can lead to a disturbance
of the natural equilibrium between the natural sand and the hydrodynamic
or aeolian forces (see: Norderney, Germany
and Ameland, The Netherlands) In
the case of underwater shore nourishment, the nourished sand may
move to the beach or in the foredunes by natural processes without
affecting them (see: Natural processes). Because
of that this type of nourishment is now preferred (5)
(see: The NOURTEC and the RIACON projects on Terschelling,
The Netherlands).
References:
- Bakker, T.W., P.D. Jungerius & J.A. Klijn
(1990): Dunes of the European Coasts. Catena Supplement 18. Germany.
(BCD90).
- de Ruig, J.H.M. (1995): The Dutch experience:
four years of dynamic preservation of the coastline. In: Healy
& M. Doody (eds.). Directions in European Coastal Management.
Samara Publishing Limited. Cardigan. (PC95).
- Doody (2000; in press): Coastal conservation
and management. An ecological perspective.
- Laustrup, C. & H. T. Madsen (1997): Evaluation
of the Effect of 20 Years of Nourishment. (32PC).
- Loeffler, M. & J. Coosen (1995): Ecological
Impact of Sand Replenishment. In: Healy & M. Doody (eds.).
Directions in European Coastal Management. Samara Publishing Limited.
Cardigan. (PC95).
- Nordstrom, K.F. (2000): Beaches and Dunes of
Developed Coasts. Camebridge University Press. (PC2000a).
- Packham, J.R. & A.J. Willis (1997): Ecology
of Dunes, Salt Marsh and Shingle. Chapman & Hall. UK. (BC97).
- Stationery Office of Ireland (1996): Environmentally
friendly Coastal Protection. Ireland. (DHB96).
- Short; A.D. (1999): Handbook of Beach and Shoreface
Morphodynamics. John Wiley & Sons, LTD. UK. (BCD99).
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